Friday, 22 January 2016

Rome Record Shops

so much pasta to choose from...
...so much pizza...
...not to mention CD's (photo:Discoteca Laziale). Choices, choices!
I recently returned from a trip to Rome and Barcelona, in celebration of my birthday. It was just what the doctor (should have) ordered: Great food, great company, lots of beautiful sights, and sore feet from endless walks trying to soak it all in. Like I always do, I also made some time to browse the local record shops for bargains or just for an acquaintance with the local rock scene - so here is my report. Far from a complete guide to Rome record shops, as there were too many things to do and monuments to see for a short stay of 3,5 days - but I'll also be sharing my notes from a preparatory internet search. My first stop was not on the list: We stopped to rest our feet and have some coffee at the beautiful Galleria Alberto Sordi (former Galleria Colonna) by the Via Del Corso, near the Fontana Di Trevi. Among other shops, there's a 3-story bookshop/DVD & CD shop of the Feltrinelli chain. Somewhat similar to fnac or Public in other EU countries, but heavier on the books and music and lighter on the electronics. Nice ambience, good variety of Italian and international music, nice to browse around if you happen to be in the neighborhood - but nothing special. If you have some time to kill, I'd recommend the Discoteca Laziale near the Termini station (Via Giolitti 263). Lots of space, good presentation, affordable prices (many offers around €10, the rest €15-20), big variety in new CD's (and some LP's) and listening stations - what else can you ask? I spent some time there listening to obscure Italian 70's prog and got some very interesting CD's of which I'll be writing about shortly. While not as celebrated as their English or German counterparts, Italian groups of the era were at least their equals. I've already presented albums by Le Orme and Area, expect much more in the future... 
Transmission Records
On the other side of the tracks and just past some ancient arches, there is a more run-down Roman neighborhood. Walking around you'll discover some non-touristy, definitively unhip but charming nevertheless cafes. There (Via dei Salentini 27) you'll also find Transmission Records. It looks small but don't let that fool you. CD's are displayed without cases, just the cover or a photocopy, meaning that you can pile thousands of them in a very small space. Practical solution, but not for me: I like reading the tracklist on the back and, if possible, even the liner notes in the insert. This store packs a lot of more recherché items, compared to Laziale - independent labels and underground groups. All kinds of genres, but very well stocked in dark wave - what do you expect when it's named after a song by Joy Division? The average price of CD's was €10 for used and €15-20 for new, LP's mostly around €15. But I did also unearth some classic Italian prog CD's for €6. Next stop, one of the most famous Roman record shops, Soul Food (S. Giovanni in Laterano 194). Really small but with lots of character and crammed with all kinds of stuff, including CD's (once again just the covers), T-shirts and books. New and (mostly) used LP's take up most of the space. Unlike other used record shops where you have to go through a lot of junk to find the hidden treasure, most LP's here belong to the treasure category. Price-wise no real bargains but you have to pay for quality. Nothing ridiculously overpriced though, unlike certain London record shops.
"Soul Food", indeed
You'll find a lot of garage, power pop and alternative albums - some of which you'll probably never have seen in the shops. Expect to pay 12-20 for new CD's and €15-25 for Lps. Most used CD's go for around €8, unless they're really rare. Supposedly it had a smaller brother store called Junk Food with all the cheaper stuff, but it must have closed. Same for Doctor Music at the Via dei Gracchi, which was also on my list. Goody Music which I had written down as a record shop, nowadays just sells DJ equipment. The rest of my list I didn't have time to check out, but I'll share it with you - just remember, it could be outdated and/or inaccurate. 
* Radiation Records (Pigneto/ Circonvallazione Casilina 44), a lot of new and used vinyl and CDs
Elastic Rock (Monteverde/ Viale dei Quattro Venti 239) New & used vinyl & cds, supposedly cheap.
Millerecords Music Store (Via Merulana 91) is a modestly-sized shop specialized in vinyl.
* Pink Moon (Via A. Pacinotti 3/c) for new & used vinyl and cd's
* Go to Hellnation (Via Nomentana 113) for punk & hard core.
* Invito alla Lettura (Centro Storico /Corso Vittorio Emanuele II 283) is a bookshop where you supposedly can also find records but, judging from the website, I wouldn't expect much.
Alpacha Distro (Via Fanfulla da Lodi 5) is mentioned in some guides, but the website hasn't been updated for more than a year, so it's probably closed.
Some of them didn't seem that great while others sounded quite promising but were just out of walking distance for me. Well, maybe another time. Just another of many reasons to return. For now, like that old song goes, "Arrivederci Roma"!
2ND VISIT TO ROME, JUNE 2022. They say that if you toss a coin behind your back at the Fontana Di Trevi, you will return to Rome. Well, I did, and what do you know? It worked, because 6 years later there I was again! Of course I went looking for records this time, too. As my hotel was near Termini station, I started with Discoteca Laziale. My impression this time: nice space, a good CD selection, limited variety on vinyl, many books and music-related T-shirts (21-26). I went by Transmission, but found it closed during nominal working hours, which was a pity because it normally has good stuff. Very close to it, there are another two, smaller, record shops: Il Mangiadischi (Via degli Equi 25) looks small but has a nice selection in jazz and soul. Used LP's €6-15, new €20+. A few (unknown to me) new vinyls for €10, CD's mostly 5. Ultrasuoni (Via dei Marsi 24) is techno-oriented, with some disco and very few pop/rock LP's. Not my scene, but I did find a soundtrack I liked for only €5. From there I kept on walking away from the center to a neighborhood called Pigneto, which media have dubbed "The Brooklyn of Rome". Well, I've never been to Brooklyn, but it reminded me of the working class neighborhood where I grew up (Nikaia), albeit with a sprinkling of trendy bars and some nice street art. No palazzos here, but according to vinylhub there should be 4 record shops within a couple hundred meters from each other. No such luck! Ghost Records (registered on Via Gentile da Mogliano 19) is an actual ghost. 
Alpacha Distro is supposed to be found on Via Fanfulla da Lodi 5. All that's there is a yard which seems to sometimes function as a community meeting place. Bluetopia (Via del Pigneto 116) should be easy to find, but nooo... google reviews are fairly recent, so it hasn't closed down, but there's nothing there. Maybe when the shutters are closed it becomes invisible? Thankfully, Radiation Records (Via Romanello da Forlì 14) was open, and it's probably the best record store in Rome: really big, with a variety of styles but an emphasis in indie, punk, reggae etc. New CDs mostly €8-12, used ones cheaper, plus 1-in-5 is free. New LPs €15-25, some offers for €10. Used LPs mostly €8-15. For those who don't feel like going to Pigneto, Radiation has a smaller brother in Monti (Via del Boschetto 94), a central neighborhood near the Forum with narrow cobbled streets and nice bars and restaurants. Here you can buy T-shirts, many used CD's €5, others around €12, used and new vinyl mostly €12-25. Wide selection of records: indie, Italian, reggae etc. Also in the center, there's Millerecords (Via Merulana 91). Mainly used vinyl: rock, soul, classical, prog, Italian music. LP's cost mostly €15-25. Nice selection of Italian prog €25-50, some new 180gr prog reissues €25-28, and a few CD's around €10.
Soul Food was closed for vacation at the time, but it's a must-visit, also centrally located (Via di S. Giovanni in Laterano 194). I visited two more record shops, on the other bank of the Tiber near Trastevere. Pink Moon is a big two-story shop. Most new LP's are on the ground floor, including a good selection of Italian prog (reissues 22-27), classic rock, metal, some bootlegs etc. The 1st floor is less well-ordered but searching may provide you with some unexpected treasures. Used LP's (indie, classic rock, pop) mostly 8-15, CD's 5-10.
The last one I had time to visit was Elastic Rock. Lots of interesting stuff here, but I found it a bit chaotic, not so nice to browse. At the front you'll find some CD's for €3, inside used €7-10 and new for various prices, as well as LP's (new €15-35, used €8-20) Classic rock, jazz, Italian, a bit of everything. Now, even though this time I had more time, I still didn't get to check all the shops on my list, but I'll try to mention most of the rest below:
Welcome To The Jungle (Via Monte Zebio 44A, near the Vatican) gets really good reviews. Large selection of Rock, Jazz, Indie, Prog etc.
Inferno (Via Nomentana 113) is apparently a sort of successor to Hellnation, which used to be in the same neighborhood. It's specialized in punk and metal.
Round Midnight (Via di S. Orsola 10) is a "collector's" record shop. Visitors don't give the best feedback; seems like the owner isn't the most friendly/helpful type.
Not Perfect (Via Giuseppe Galliano 10) is, admittedly, not the best name for any kind of business. But, browsing the online shop, it seems to have cool stuff (rock, pop, new wave, alternative etc) and affordable prices.
Chicken Records is a "small and cozy record shop" far from the city center (Via Rovigno d'Istria 14a)
Vinyl Room (Via della Frezza 53a, near the Piazza Di Popolo) sells mostly new but also some used vinyl (rock, pop, reggae, folk)
This time I neglected to throw a coin in the Fontana Di Trevi, but I hope to be able to go back and update this post in the future. Visiting Rome is always an enjoyable (not to mention tasty) experience...



















1 comment:

  1. Γεια σου Κωστή! Μαθαίνω τα νέα σας από την Αναστασία. Ωραία δουλειά κάνεις εδώ. Να τα πούμε όταν βρεθείτε στην Αθήνα

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