Madrid Record Stores

Last month I visited Madrid for the first time. I've been to Spain many many times before, but hadn't been to the capital until recently. The trip didn't turn out to be all I hoped, because I contracted the COVID-19 virus and spent most of my time inside an Air BnB. So I didn't go to the Prado museum, and only got to visit 4 or 5 different tapas bars and vermoutherias - not bad for one evening, but still... Worse still, I had to sell my tickets to see Bruce Springsteen & The E Street Band at the Estadio Civitas Metropolitano. But on the bright side, I got to complete my ritual of mapping the city's record stores - at least the ones witin walking distance of the city center. As always, I'd like to share my impessions with you. First of all, I'm glad to report that Madrid does have a commecial center. Remember how I said that L.A. was so spread out that it was impossible to visit all the shops I wanted to? Madrid City has about the same population with the city of Los Angeles while its metropolitan area is about half than that of LA, which is still pretty huge. Yet while in LA the places I wanted to vist were an hour's drive away from each other, here I could walk from one to the next. Priceless! We stayed at Lavapiés, a lively multicultural neighborhood at the center of Madrid, which helped me organize my record hunting stroll by dividing it in two clusters; the bigger one was North of Plaza Mayor:

According to the notes I made before my visit, two of the must-visit record stores of the city are called La Metralleta and Discos La Metralleta. "Not to be confused" - because who would confuse two shops situated next to each other, with the same logo and (almost) the same name? Seriously folks? "The Machine Gun"? Does that scream "vinyl" to you? Is it such a great title that one of you can't rename their store to avoid the confusion? Not that the identical names are the only source of confusion: The addresses I got were "Plaza San Martín nº 1-B", and "Aparcamiento Descalzas, C. del Postigo de San Martín". I put them in googlemaps, and arrived at a roundabout facing the ancient walls of a Catholic monastery. I went around the plaza a couple of times; no sign of a record store anywhere. Then I noticed the entrance to a "parking lot"; I descended the stairs and arrived to the underground shopping gallery where both shops are housed. Discos La Metralleta is a big basement shop with a big selection of used vinyl (LPs €6-30, median €9). All kinds of genres: pop, rock, spanish, soul, latin, jazz etc. There are even more CDs (mostly €3-5, some €6-9) as well as singles. The other shop (La Metralleta?) is almost equally large. There's also lot of classic rock, jazz and soul, but I was especially satisfied with its collection of heavy metal, punk, and garage rock. New LPs cost €15-25, used €5-20, CDs €3-8. The shop also sells singles and T-shirts. Both shops offer some random albums for €1-2, though I couldn't find anthing of interest at that price. Interestingly, in any Spanish record store, at least one third of the records and CDs will be by local bands/artists singing in their own language. In most European countries, that would be more like 10%. Next stop La Gramola (Postigo de San Martín 4). Here you can get LPs (used €10-35 new €25+) CDs (offers €6, new €10+), posters, t-shirts, singles etc. Very close (C. de las Navas de Tolosa, 4) there's a shop called Escridiscos. Especially good for rare album reissues, Spanish rock, prog, psychedelic, and punk. New LPs mostly €15-25 used €10-20. Many offers (classic rock, alternative, soul etc.) for €7-10, and discounts 10-40% depending on the number of records you buy. Not far from there, two more record stores close to each other: Discos Babel (Calle de Costanilla de Los Ángeles 5) has a nice collection of folk, 60s and 70s garage/psych, progressive, classic rock, punk/new wave. Used vinyl mostly (€15-25) as well as a few CDs, books and DVDs. Neatly catalogued by style and decade. Right next to it, there's another nice record store called Discos Bangladesh. Great selection of LPs (€12-35, median price for used €15), CDs (new, €10-15) and singles. Arranged by style, good for heavy rock, garage/punk, classic rock/prog. Just a note: in Spain, alphabetical order often means by first name, so expect to find Bruce Springsteen on B, next to The Beatles and Bob Dylan.

A bit to the east of these, one can find Discos Killers. It's on a nice pedestrian street (Calle de la Montera, 28) with lots of shops and cafes, but the shop itself is nothing special. There's some random cheap LPs (€1-3). The rest (Spanish/soul/folk/pop/rock) costs mostly €9-25 (used) and €20-35 (new). Also somesingles and (new) CDs €9-15. Close to Gran Via (Preciados 28) one can find a big FNAC store. Most Europeans will be familiar with this department store chain that focuses on books, music, movies, and electronics. One floor is dedicated to vinyl (€20-30) and CDs (€10-20), as well as books, comics, DVDs and toys. No second hand stuff, of course. Sun Records (Pl. de Santo Domingo 8) was a relative disappointment for me. I love rock & metal music, which this shop specializes in, but there were very few LPs (€25-40), while the CDs (€6-18) were not displayed in a browse-friendly manner. It gave off a sort of decadent feel, in general. The opposite of Marilians (C. del Noviciado 9): this place is modern, clean, and cosy, probably the best place for alternative rock and indie labels, without ignoring the classics of course. New LP's only, €20-35. This shop is near the Noviciado metro station. To the east, there's a nice neighbourhood with vintage clothing stores and tapas bars, as well as record stores including one called Jazz y Mas  (C. de la Palma 28). This place has two entrances: the smaller corner one contains the books and CD's, while the bigger section is the vinyl shop. About 50% of it is jazz records, the rest are pop, rock, and classical. Almost exclusively new vinyl €25-50. You may not be surprised to hear that they have a very deep jazz selection. There's a number of other shops in the neighborhood mostly selling electronic music - thus, of  limited interest to me: El Almacén de Discos (C. de las Minas 13) is big, but not very full. Next to house and techno, one can find some ethnic, jazz, funk and rock LPs (used €10-30). Palma 39 (C. de la Palma 39) is a small vinyl shop focusing on electro, industrial & EBM, while Recycled Music Center and Fripperie (Corre. Baja de San Pablo 34) sells used records (techno/electro, also some jazz, disco, and new wave). I wasn't familiar with any of them, which doesn't happen often. But the same was also true of Ater Cosmo vinyl store, seemingly only selling electronic music by tiny indie labels. Last record shop I visted in the north of Plaza Mayor cluster was Lost Things Libros & Discos (Calle del Barco 43). The sign above the door reads L st Th ngs. They've lost an o and an i - if it is wordplay with the shop's name, it's f-ing clever. More likely though, it's one of those coincidences. They deal with 2nd hand books and records, Spanish and international pop/rock/folk. Random stuff, with luck one may find something interesting (used LPs €8-20). Also lots of books, a few CDs and singles. I'll add a few places that I either didn't have the time to visit or didn't catch open: Rock & Roll Circus (C. de las Conchas, 4), Rotor Discos (Gran Vía 40, electronic music), Discpol (C/ de Jesús del Valle 8, mostly secondhand vinyl), Nakasha (C. de Andrés Mellado 24. Vinyl, CD, T-shirts etc).

After recovering from the sickness, and with only one day to spare in Madrid, I was able to complete my round of the city's record stores by visiting the South of Plaza Mayor cluster: Bajo El Volcán is probably the biggest of the bunch, spread in two floors: the upper floor is clean and cozy; here you'll find new vinyl (€20-30), books and rare 2nd hand LPs (€25-90). Mainly soul, jazz, indie etc. In the basement there's more used vinyl, mainly rock/blues/soul from the 60s,70s,80s (€5-20, but also crates of €2). Another relatively big shop is Discos Ziggy (C. De Los Estudios 6). Here, you'll find lots of cheap DVDs, CDs (used €5-10) and T-shirts (€15). New (€25-35) and used LPs (€10-25) from all decades (rockabilly/classic rock/garage/metal). Discos Satelite (C/ de la Ribera de Curtidores 8) has a few €1 singles and CDs at its front, while the front room dedicated to 60s-70s pop/rock (LPs €10-20, CDs €5-10) and the back room to Spanish and world music, jazz, indie, and funk. 

As I am a dentist by profession, the name Molar Discos Y Libros caught my attention. What do molars have to do with books and music? A visit to the shop didn't solve the mystery. Granted, I didn't chat about it with the clerk; I rarely do, and even less in Spain where I know that not everyone speaks English. The shop didn't have a huge selection of records, but it was an interesting one: lots of indie labels, punk rock/alternative/electronic/jazz etc (new, €20-30). Some rarities, possibly bootlegs. Another shop in the neighborhood is Liquidator Music: a place with good vibes, specialized in reggae/ska/african music/60s beat/garage punk/exotica. LPs for €15-30, lots of singles, and some CDs. From here on south, there's a region full of antique shops, among which some record stores. Skinny Records & Lola Vintage  (C. de la Encomienda 12) combines vintage fashion and music. Stylish exterior, but I didn't catch it open. Same with Satanasa (Cjón. del Mellizo 6), which only opens on Sunday. Sin Moralla Discos y Libros (Plaza del Gral. Vara de Rey 5) has some crates with used records, including original LPs from the 60s/70s (jazz/rock/latin, €10-35). Finally, an interesting shop I didn't visit (it was a bit further away on Calle de las Delicias 25, near the train station) is Delia Records. 

That makes about two dozen record stores, which I managed to visit during my latest Madrid trip - despite getting sick with COVID. Of course, I only went inside the shops after I was completely symptom free, wearing a mask to ensure that I wouldn't pass the virus on. But, while I did OK on the record hunting front, I have less to share with you about the city's culture, food, and nightlife. I intend to make up for that next year. To round it up, I decided to share with you the notes I made before the visit, based on info from googlemaps and various other websites; here, you'll also find the opening times for each store - which is crucial in Spain, because shops mostly close in the afternoon for lunch/siesta, but not all of them at the same time.

CLUSTER 1 - EMPAJADORES & SOUTH OF PLAZA MAJOR

DISCOS ZIGGY*** C. De Los Estudios 6 - open 10:00-20:30

Rara Avis Store** Mercado de la Cebada, Puesto 142, Pl. de la Cebada (Goth-punk-alternative) Saturday 12:00-15:30

Molar Records & Books** C. de la Ruda, open 11:00-14:00, 17:00-21:00 (gifts,records)

Skinny Records & Lola Vintage** C. de la Encomienda, 12, open 11:30-14:00, 17:00-20:00 (retro fashion, records)

Liquidator Music*** C. de las Dos Hermanas, 22,, open 11:30-14:00, 17:00-20:00 (reggae-latin-jazz-soul)

Sin Morralla Records & Books** Plaza del Gral. Vara de Rey, 5 open Wed-Fri 17:00-20:30, Sat-Sun 11:00-14:00 (jazz-rock-latiSpanjen-soul)

Discos Satelite*** C/ de la Ribera de Curtidores, 8 open: Mon-Fri 16:30-20:30, Sat-Sun 10:00-14:00

Bajoelvolcán*** C. del Ave María, 42,  Mon-Sat 11:30-14:00, 17:00 -21:00 (new & very big selection used basement. Rock, Jazz, Soul)

Satanasa** Cjón. del Mellizo, 6, open: Sun 11h00 and 15h00 (punk, rock, psych)

Delia Records** Calle de las Delicias, 25, (near train station) open 11:00-14:00, 17:00-21:00

CLUSTER 2 - GRAN VIA & NORTH OF PLAZA MAJOR

Discos La Metralleta *** Aparcamiento Descalzas, C. del Postigo de San Martín,1 (used. Spanish music, rock) , open 10:00-14:00, 16:00-20:00

La Metralleta Discos Todo Música y Cine*** Parking Descalzas, Pl. de San Martín, 1-B, Galería Comercial open Mon-Tue-Thurs-Fri-Sat 10:00–13:45, 16:30–20:30

La Gramola discos*** C. del Postigo de San Martín, 4, open: Mo-Sat 11:00–21:00 (old rock/metal on vinyl or CD)

Discos Bangla Desh*** Cost.ª de los Ángeles, 5 open: Mon-Sat 11:00–14:30, 17:00–20:30 (Rock, Garage, Indie - vinyl, many CDs)

Discos Babel*** Cost.ª de los Ángeles, 5 open: Mon-Sat 11:00–14:30, 16:30–20:00 (classic rock, garage, indie)

Rock & Roll Circus** C. de las Conchas, 4 open: Mon-Sat 11:00–14:15, 17:00–20:30 (electronic, dance)

Escridiscos*** C. de las Navas de Tolosa, 4, open: Mon-Sat 11:00–14:30, 17:00–20:30 (new/used, rock-punk-soul)

Killer's Discos** C. de la Montera, 28 open: Mon-Sat 11:00–14:30, 17:00–20:30 (vinyl, CD's, books)

Rotor Discos** Gran Vía, 40, 2º piso-puerta 2, open: Mon-Sat 11:00–14:00, 17:00–20:45 (dance, funk)

SUN Records*** Pl. de Santo Domingo, 8, open: Tue, Fri 17:00–20:00, Sat 11:00–15:00 (rock, metal, goth)

ATER COSMO Vinyl Store* C. de la Puebla, 9, open: Mon-Sat 11:30–15:30, 16:30–20:30 (electronic, vinyl)

Lost Things Discos & Libros** C. del Barco, 43, open: Mo-Tue-Thurs-Fri-Sat 13:00–21:00 Wed 12:00–15:00 Sun 13:00–19:00 (used vinyl, books)

Recycled Music Center & Friperie** Corre. Baja de San Pablo, 34, Mo-Fri 11:00-20:30, Sat-Sun 12:00-20:30 (electronic, soul)

DISKPOL** C/ de Jesús del Valle, 8, open: Mo-Fri 11:00–14:00, 17:30–21:00 (secondhand vinyl)

El Almacén de discos** open: Mo-Wed 5–9, Frid 3:30–9, Sat 12–9 pm (new & used, electronic)

MARILIANS RECORDS*** C. del Noviciado, 9, open: Mo-Sat 11 –3 , 4:30–9 (new & used. indie, Spanish rock)

Jazzymas** C. de la Palma, 28, Open Mo-Sat 11:30 am–2:30 pm, 5:30–9 pm (new/used jazz,classical,soul)

Nakasha** C. de Andrés Mellado, 24, open: Mo-Sat 11 am–2 pm, 5–8:30 pm Tue 11 am–2 pm (Vinyl, CD, T-shirts etc pop-rock)

OUT OF CENTER

Big Mamma Records** Calle del Divino Pastor, 22 Open: Mo-Sat, 11:30 AM - 2:30 PM, 5:30 PM - 8:30 PM (black music)

La Negra** Calle Eugenio Salazar, 9 Open: Mo-Sat 12:00 PM - 2:30 PM, 6:00 PM - 9:00 PM (punk, rock, soul)