**** for Leftback, Wicked Witch Of The East, Gypsy Caravan, Ring Around The Moon
*** for Earth Queen, Cloak And Dagger
I'm in the process of re-listening and re-evaluating my record collection, in no particular order. I'll be sharing the results of my evaluation and thoughts on the music in this blog.
**** for Leftback, Wicked Witch Of The East, Gypsy Caravan, Ring Around The Moon
*** for Earth Queen, Cloak And Dagger
Secondly, buildings in Japan don't have a ground floor - or rather, the 1st floor is the ground floor. So when one tells you this record store is on the 2nd floor that means you go up one flight of stairs. Thirdly, unlike in the US, all prices are tax-inclusive BUT there's a neat little trick you may want to take advantage of: overseas travelers may have the tax deducted from their purchases provided they don't make use of them while they're on Japanese soil. This service will not be available in all shops, but some record stores provide it. Finally, the price of some records will be in the thousands, but don't let that scare you: as of 2025, ¥1000 is only worth roughly €6 or $7. Shibuya's Tower Records is the largest record store in the Asian continent - probably in the world, too. I mean there seem to be four contenders for this title, and one of them is Amoeba Records in L.A. which I've already visited; I can verify that it's freaking huge, but Tower Records Shibuya is even bigger (if not necessarily better). First of all, the building is literally tower-like in height. It's 8 floors high and 1 deep (so, 9 floors in total). Each one is dedicated to something else e.g. 3rd floor is Japanese music, 4th is anime and game soundtracks, 5th is K-pop, 6th is reserved exclusively for vinyl singles and LPs (jazz rock pop soul etc). New records cost around ¥5000, used ones ¥500-3000. Address is 1-22-14 Jinnan, a three-minute walk from Shibuya Station (Hachiko Exit). You know the story of Hachiko dog, right? Exactly opposite the train station, also accessible via the underground passage, you'll find the Magnet Department store (1-23-10 Jinnan). The rooftop lounge of the 8th floor offers one of the best views of Tokyo, including the Shibuya Scramble Crossing. One has to buy a ticket to get there, but the 7th floor is free, and one can get a good view of the crossing from there, too.
Recofan, which is one of Tokyo's biggest, and more historic, record stores takes up most of the 6th floor. Here, new LPs cost ¥4000+, used ones on average ¥2000, and used CDs ¥280-1000. Something I found very helpful was that records were arranged alphabetically; in Japanese of course, but next to the Japanese characters (each one is a syllable) there are the corresponding letters in the Latin alphabet. Still close to the station, on the 5th and 6th floor of the Shibuya Modi department store (1-21-3 Jinnan) one can visit HMV Music & Books. To be honest it didn't meet my expectations, as it seemed to focus on K- and J- Pop idols and boy/girl bands, and fan merchandise. There does seem to be an awful big market for those, judging from all the advertisements; these are all around Shibuya giving it that Blade Runner vibe. Huge screens with moving, and often talking, ads, not only on or above the towering buildings but also on street level as well as moving in the streets. I can't tell you how often I was surprised when I heard a voice seemingly addressed to me, and looked right to see the moving image of an androgynous Asian teen idol on a screen bolted on a moving vehicle's trailer. Thankfully, there's another HMV record store nearby (36-2 Udagawacho Noah Shibuya) this one focuses on international music (rock, indie, prog) as well as some J-rock. New LPs around ¥4000-5000, used ones mostly ¥3000 although there are also some for ¥1000. All the above shops (Tower, Recofan and both HMVs) allow for tax-free purchases, which isn't the case with the rest of the shops I visited. Still in the neighborhood, there's Manhattan Records which specializes in Hip Hop, R & B and classic soul. On the 1st Floor (ground floor to us Westerners) there are records in these genres as well as street fashion items, while the 2nd floor mostly has used records and CDs (mostly ¥770-2000) as well as some singles and cassettes. Another shop in similar music style is 2 Tight Music (35-4 Udagawacho, Oak Village Building). It's on the 5th floor, apartment 503. Small but packed with lots of hip hop CDs, as well as some singles and cassettes. On the 3rd floor (apt.305) there's another specialty record store: RnR Music Garden is dedicated to rockabilly.
Which brings us to a back alley behind a very central street, while there are also a few night clubs in the area. Here there are two record stores opposite each other, Face Records (soul, jazz, funk - according to Google this is now "temporarily closed") and Next Records (2F Ryuko Building, 11-11 Udagawacho) (hip hop, R&B, disco etc). One floor above you'll find another record store called Mother's Record (jazz, rock, bootlegs). You can see it from the street but the entrance is somewhat hidden. I could hear some great rock music coming from a bar here (I think it was this one) - it sounded like The Clash with Japanese lyrics. Me and my girlfriend thought about going in for a drink but there were some very drunk customers at the staircase, singing the chorus of the song at the top of their lungs. They didn't look dangerous or something, they were just loudly enjoying themselves, but we weren't in a similar mood so we left. At the corner there was another bar; a young girl with a short skirt -as is the fashion there- at the door was inviting people to come in, but that's something you get used to in Tokyo, restaurants and retail shops have them too. What did catch my attention was a sign at the front with prices per 45 or 60 minutes. My first thought was they were renting karaoke booths or something similar, the second one was something less innocent. It turns out that this was a 'girls' bar', a popular kind of diversion for middle-aged Japanese men. Contrary to what happens in the West, this is about company, not sex: there's no touching, the girls don't dance for the men or take their clothes off, they're only there for conversation - on any subject except sex. Anyway, let's get back to the record stores, because I've kept the best for last, and that's Disk Union, the motherlode of all record stores anywhere in the world! The various departments of this shop are a bit scattered, yet close to each other. If they were gathered in one place, they'd probably surpass Tower Records. The extremely detailed guide I recommended earlier mentions that Disk Union takes up 5 floors of the Antena 21 building (30-7 UdagawachÅ), but that wasn't the case when I visited last April: only two floors were occupied by Disk Union at that time: 4F (Club Music) featuring techno, dance, hip hop as well as DJ equipment and 5F (Jazz & Rare Groove) that had jazz, reggae, and world music (prices starting at ¥380, mostly over ¥2000).
Another shop is at the basement of the Parco department store (15-1 UdagawachÅ): a lot of jazz, indie, rock, metal, and J-rock. Good variety and prices, even though I couldn't understand the idea behind the pricing: I found two seemingly identical used copies of The Beatles' Blue album, in the exact same condition: one had a yellow label and cost ¥4650, the other one had a blue label and cost ¥480 - less than €3 for a Beatles' double LP in VG+ condition - only in Japan, man! I could have filled suitcases full of vinyl - hell, I almost did when I visited Disk Union on the first day of the trip, buying all kinds of good-ish records that I nevertheless didn't need, just because they cost less than one third of their usual price. Then I imagined myself dragging those suitcases with me for the rest of the journey, on the shinkansen and in those subterranean cities that pass for metro stations in Japan. From then on, I only bought records from Japanese bands that I knew I wouldn't be able to find anywhere else. By far the most purchases were made at Disk Union Rock (at the basement of 32-7 Udagawa-cho). Huge huge variety in all rock subgenres (classic rock, J-rock, punk, metal etc.) both in vinyl and CD. There were some new LPs (around ¥5000) but crucially lots and lots of used LPs starting from ¥380, and mostly under ¥2000. Here too they have the system with different color labels corresponding to different price ranges. During my visit I also happened to catch an in-store gig, which I loved. I wouldn't know if it happens frequently, though. There are many more Disk Union branches in Tokyo, most notably in Shinjuku, where the various by-genre shops are also scattered among different apartment buildings in the same area. I'll stop at saying that these are also must-visit for collectors, and limit this post to the Shibuya region, with which I'm relatively more familiar; after all there's a lot of information online about record shopping in Tokyo, I'm only scratching the surface here.
***** for Take Only What You Can Carry, Fire On Ice Floe
**** for Shot Of Solidaritine, Focus Coin, Blueprint, I’m Coming Out, My Imaginary Son, Forces Of Victory, Gut Guidance
*** for The Era Of The End Of Eras, Knack For Life, The Great Hunt Of Idiot Savant, Huckleberry Generation
**** for Strange Mysterious Sound, Summertime Blues (With Blue Cheer), I Put a Spell On You (With Screamin' Jay Hawkins), Messin' With the Kid (With Junior Wells)
*** for Let's Live for Today (With the Grass Roots), Born to Be Wild (With Ann-Margret), Kicks (With Mark Lindsay), Mary Lou (With Sonny Burgess), Windy (With the Association), Ain't Got No Home (With Clarence 'Frogman' Henry), What Good Is It? (With Screamin' Jay Hawkins), Can Your Pussy Do The Dog?
**** for Hello Goodbye, Jet, Coming Up, Let Me Roll It, You Never Give Me Your Money/Carry That Weight, The Fool on the Hill, Eleanor Rigby, Here There and Everywhere, Michelle, Band on the Run, Back in the U.S.S.R., Maybe I'm Amazed, She's Leaving Home, Can't Buy Me Love, Live and Let Die, Let It Be, Hey Jude, The Long and Winding Road, Lady Madonna, Sgt. Pepper's Lonely Hearts Club Band/The End
*** for All My Loving, Getting Better, Lonely Road, Blackbird, Every Night, Mother Nature's Son, Here Today, Calico Skies, Let 'Em In, My Love, I Saw Her Standing There, Yesterday
** for Driving Rain, Your Loving Flame, We Can Work It Out, Something
So, it was a gap of exactly 40 years between hearing of Téléphone for the first time and buying a record by them, which I finally did last week after a trip to Paris - I have a tradition of getting records by local rock bands in every country I visit. The first time I heard of them was in the summer of 1985 during the first (and possibly best) Greek rock festival Rock In Athens. Which triggers a trip into memory lane; so if you're only want to read about the album, skip the red letters. The festival was part of the celebrations of European Capital of Culture, a new institution conceived by Greek minister of culture, former movie star Melina Mercouri and her French counterpart Jack Lange. As such, it was co-organized by the Greek Ministry of Culture with the help of a French concert promoter - which accounts for the inclusion of Téléphone in a line-up that also included The Clash, The Cure, Depeche Mode, The Stranglers, Talk Talk, Culture Club, and Nina Hagen: all New Wave bands either on the rise or at the height of their powers - with the exception of Téléphone, and of The Clash for whom it was the last concert ever. It could never have happened without the support of a progressive like Melina; the governing left-of-center Socialist party wasn't any different to the others when it came to its relation to underground youth movements. In the same year, the first punk LP by Stress was censored, and on November a 15-year old youth was shot by riot police in the aftermath of a big demonstration. Rock concerts of the time invariably ended up in riots and tear gas, and Rock In Athens was no exception. Another dark moment of the festival was the reception Culture Club got: they were booed and pelted with plastic bottles by homophobic members of the audience. Apparently Boy George's parting words to them were: "If I wasn't a nice lady I would have shown you my arse." At the time I was too young to attend the festival, but I followed the relevant news closely. Music writers were ecstatic but mainstream press was mostly derisive. I used to get the Sunday edition of Rizospastis (the official newspaper of the Communist party) for its extensive cultural insert, and was shocked by their vehemently anti-rock coverage; I distinctly remember reading that by inviting a band called The Stranglers, one glorifies violence and anti-social behavior, misguiding and corrupting youths. I was taken aback, because to me the communists were the good guys: they had formed the popular liberation army against the Nazis, fought against the colonels' dictatorship, and were at the forefront of the workers' rights and peace movements. Anyway, things would change pretty soon; in 1987 the KNE (Communist Youth) festival featured a reggae artist (Maxi Priest) for the first time. Unfortunately though, I missed it. You see, I was invited to the event by a girl called Julia who was also my high school's student council president. At some point, she introduced me to a slightly older guy who I suppose was her instructor. He starting giving me the speech: similar to that of insurance salesmen, only he wasn't selling anything, he was trying to get me to join KNE. That kept me busy for an hour, after which the rest of our company came back from the music stage at the other end of the festival grounds, raving about Maxi Priest and his band. I was so mad at Julia for luring me in like that and making me miss the show, you can bet I never spoke to her again! Anyway, rock wasn't the capitalist devil anymore. As I've written in a previous post, next year's KNE festival featured Ten Years After. Of course I went with a different company, a bunch of longhairs who weren't into politics, just rock. That also happened to be my first real rock concert.
As for Téléphone, I hadn't heard of them prior to 1985 - or since. At the time, their inclusion in Rock In Athens lineup ensured some coverage by Greek state radio and TV (not that we had any other kind). I wasn't impressed by what sounded to my ears as second rate New Wave, and that was the impression I had of them, until recently. Then I heard people mention them as "The French Rolling Stones" and thought maybe I should give them another chance - it's been after all 40 years, and my musical taste has evolved. So when I found this limited yellow vinyl reissue at a Paris record shop, I told myself it' do as a souvenir from our latest Paris trip. This compilation was initially released in 1982, and contains tracks from three LPs released between 1977 and 1980. Their eponymous debut (1977) almost justifies their reputation: "Hygiaphone" is pure Chuck Berry rockabilly, "Dans Ton Lit" sounds more like New York Dolls, and "Flipper" is a 6-minute long funk rocker. "Téléphomme" starts off as a bluesy ballad, but after 3 minutes turns into a hard rocker reminiscent of Rory Gallagher. From Crache Ton Venin ("Spit Your Venom", 1979) we also get four tracks, or is it five? "Ne Me Regarde Pas / Regarde Moi" consist a single track in the LP tracklist, but were split for the 7' single and are presented here apart: the former is power pop reminiscent of The Knack or Sniff'n The Tears, the latter an aggressive hard rocker. "Fait Divers" is rousing pub rock, while "J'suis parti de chez mes parents" is another straight-up rock'n'roller, and "Tu Vas Me Manquer" is among the best punk/funk hybrids not written by Ian Dury. The original vinyl LP had a transparent plastic outer sleeve; when it was removed, the inner sleeve revealed that the band had posed in the nude - the clothes were only painted over the naked photos on the outer sleeve! Judging from the tracks included here, Au CÅur De La Nuit (1980) is far less aggressive: "Le Silence" is acoustic blues, while "Laisse Tomber" is a more electric take on blues and soul. "Pourquoi N'Essaies-Tu Pas?", on the other hand, rocks as hard as their older stuff - a bit like Some Girls-era Stones, actually. The song selection for this compilation provides a good balance between rock, blues, punk and funk. 12 tracks, 6 on every side, is also a good number for a vinyl LP. It's not the ultimate Best-Of, though, as it omits some of their more popular singles ("Anna", "Metro C'est Trop", "La Bombe Humaine", "Argent Trop Cher") in favor of album-only tracks. What counts, nevertheless, isn't what's missing but what's there - and, based on that, this is one hot piece of Francophone rock'n'roll! There's been a limited reissue on yellow vinyl last year, but original copies are easy, and cheap enough, to find online.
**** for Hygiaphone, Dans Ton Lit, Fait Divers, Tu Vas Me Manquer, Téléphomme, Laisse Tomber, Flipper
*** for Ne Me Regarde Pas, Regarde-Moi, Le Silence, J'Suis Parti De Chez Mes Parents, Pourquoi N'Essaies-Tu Pas?