Panx Romana "Αντάρτες Πόλεων" (City Rebels) 1989****

Last summer, Panx Romana celebrated 40 years of existence with a big concert in downtown Athens. If I'm not mistaken, that makes them the oldest Greek rock band still active, as well as the longest-serving one. It wasn't commercial success that kept the band going all these years; they release their albums on indie label Wipe Out! with minimum promotion. As for income from live gigs, I've been to many of their concerts during the late 80's and 90's and most of them were free in support for one cause or another: legal help for jailed anarchists, free clinics for the poor and marginalized, rehabilitation for former addicts etc. No, Panx Romana retained a constant following throughout the years, firstly by staying true to their beliefs and musical vision, and secondly by doing the unthinkable for punk rockers: being all-around nice guys. Sure, they embraced the aggressive punk fashion and anarchist ideology just like all the other punk bands in the overtly politicized Greek scene, but while others called for destruction, their way was that of non-violent resistance and a positive agenda including ecology, pacifism, and anti-drug messages. Drummer Dimitris Dimitrakas, whose career in music pre-dated punk, had a radio show called "Rock 'n' Roll Assistance" promoting young Greek bands without focusing on specific genres, and he has collaborated with almost everyone in the local rock scene. Singer Frank Ninos used to manage a club in Plaka which became the epicenter of the early Greek punk scene until the government decided to "clean up" the neighborhood. Leaving punk pioneers Stress before they recorded their songs, he recruited other scene members to form Panx Romana in 1982. Two years later they contributed two tracks to legendary compilation Διατάραξη Κοινής Ησυχίας (Disturbing The Peace, 1984) while they released their first LP Παιδιά στα όπλα (Kids At Arms) in 1987. The title song was a denunciation of the Greek system of compulsory military service. At the time it was 2 years for all 18-year old males; one could get a postponement for studies but not escape it altogether. Alternative community service was impossible, and conscientious objectors faced actual jail time. The only way out was the so-called ''crazypaper", being deemed mentally unfit for service - but that came with the expense of being stigmatized for life and excluded from working in a variety of jobs. The obligatory military service cost many young people their lives, either by suicide or accident. Among them was Frank's older brother, who died in a landmine-related incident.

Two songs in this, their second LP, also have an anti-miltarist subject: ballad "Το γράμμα / The Letter", and "Διακοπές στο χακί / Holidays in khaki" - the latter is a Clash-like number with a small ska segment. There's generally not much variation musically: The Clash and Ramones are obviously huge influences, and all the songs here -with the exception of ballad "Το γράμμα" and dub instrumental "Tien An Men"- are straight-ahead punk'n'roll. Anti-cop anthem "Καταστολή στο περιθώριο / Repression for the Underground" is even a Greek-language cover of The Ramones' "Somebody Put Something In My Drink". The subject matter of other songs includes big city pollution and alienation ("Αθήνα Μηδέν χλμ από την κόλαση / Athens zero km from hell", "Η πόλη δεν κοιμάται ποτέ / The city never sleeps", "Χάρτινη πόλη / Paper City"), state repression, ("Παρακράτος της σιωπής / Oppressive State of silence", "Στο ρυθμό της κυβέρνησης / At the beat of the government"), and the celebration of resistance either political ("Ράδιο κατάληψη / Radio takeover" , "Αντάρτες πόλεων / City rebels") or through the power of rock'n'roll ("Rock 'n' Roll βοήθειες / Rock'n'roll assistance", "Το μυστικό πάρτυ / The secret party"). The LP cover depicts the famous photo of the Tien An Men protestor in China trying to stop a tank with his body, while original LP's also included a fanzine written by the band. I used to have this LP as well as Παιδιά στα όπλα on vinyl, but sold them during The Great Vinyl Purge after transfering them on CD. Big mistake! Now they're really rare, and since I've graduated from simple music lover to record collector I wish I had kept them. I managed to get hold of this copy for a decent price, but its condition is nowhere as good as the one I used to have, this one has plays with a low but constant crackle. Should you get a copy if you find one? From a collector's point of view, absolutely. Especially if you like foreign-language punk rock or anarcho-punk in general. Musically the record is upbeat and fun, without the obnoxiousness of some more hardcore bands. Lyrically, it is commendable for the social and political themes it deals with as well as for its approach, which is less militant and more utopian, almost Christian, in nature. For those who speak Greek, Dimitrakas has a set up a great website which includes complete lyrics and sound clips from all of Panx Romana's albums, as well as his various personal albums and collaborations.

**** for Rock 'n' Roll βοήθειες, Ράδιο κατάληψη, Διακοπές στο χακί, Αντάρτες πόλεων, Καταστολή στο περιθώριο, Το γράμμα

*** for Μηδέν χλμ από την κόλαση (Αθήνα), Η πόλη δεν κοιμάται ποτέ, Παρακράτος της σιωπής, Τιέν Ανμέν Πλατεία της ουράνιας γαλήνης, Χάρτινη πόλη, Στο ρυθμό της κυβέρνησης, Το μυστικό πάρτυ

Various "Closer Spirits Cafe" 2003(comp)****

Bars in Greece aren’t just places you go to have a drink. Or just to socialize, or flirt. They can be all of these things, of course, but above all they’re a place to enjoy your favorite music with other like-minded souls. Socio-musical tribes form in them and revolve around them. Well, maybe not all bars are like that, I’m talking about a specific kind, one that thrived at my old Athens neighborhood and which I experienced from the 80’s to 00’s. One of the best music bars of this kind was Closer: the very best music, and DJ’s who interacted with the customers, and who expertly mixed the newest alternative rock hits with classic oldies and cult artists whose discovery could change your life. Not to mention live gigs, often unannounced. You'd go for a drink in your favorite bar and Holly Golightly or Savage Republic would be playing in the corner. Bars in The Netherlands aren't like that. Here the function of the music, if it’s there at all, is ambiance. It’s usually a random playlist played at low volume. Dance clubs have DJ’s of course, but they don’t really play music, just a spastic beat for your body to move to. Anyway, Closer closed  down as it fell victim to the recent Greek financial crisis. Just one of those little things that, when added up, confirm that the country is going to hell...only it isn’t, because it opened again. Different address but same atmosphere and, once more, the best music in town. I really enjoyed visiting it on my last trip to Athens, and when I got back home I found this CD out and put it on the stereo.

So what if this isn't an official CD? It’s a CD-R compilation given away to loyal customers by the owners of Closer Bar at its second anniversary (2003). But it’s also a labor of love, and it very much shows it: from the intricate fold-out case to the 16-page booklet with short stories, poems or dedications by the club’s regular and guest DJ’s, each of whom chose a song for this compilation. Participators include some of the era's top alternative radio producers, club DJ's and music writers but one name hits a nerve more than others: Thanos Anestopoulos, singer of rock group Diafana Krina, who succumbed to an aggressive form of cancer before his 50th birthday. A melancholic and poetic soul, he is very much missed in the Athens music scene. For his contribution here, he quotes a poem by Giorgos Seferis and typically chooses for inclusion a song by Divine Comedy called "The Book Lovers", basically a roll call of Neil Hannon's favorite authors recited over quasi-classical music. Of course to a book lover it's more than just a list, every name brings to mind countless poignant, joyful, or thrilling moments. The collection opens naturally with Joy Division - who else did you think Closer got its name from? It's followed by Interpol, at the time the newest, hippest Joy Division reincarnation - chosen by Athens' favorite Goth DJ, George Fakinos. Co-owner and resident DJ Vaggelio chose her favorite, Nick Cave - a relatively obscure Roy Orbison cover. More gloomy atmospheric vibes follow (Cocteau Twins, Handsome Family, Tindersticks) but that's not indicative of a typical night at Closer.
It was usually much more rock'n'roll, and that's evident in the variety of songs here: from 60's legends (Yardbirds, Stones, Booker T & The MG’s) to The Clash (some of the DJ's dedicated their entries to then recently departed Joe Strummer), not discounting then contemporary alternative radio hits (Kid Loco) and what might be your introduction to your next favorite artist - be it the Velvet-y psychedelia of Brian Jonestown Massacre, punk blues of Beasts Of Bourbon or Paisley Underground of House Of Freaks, the main common thread being great musical taste. Well, you may not be able to buy or download this CD but thankfully if you're in Athens you can still visit Closer for either afternoon coffee or after midnight drinks. I know that's what I will be doing every time I visit the old neighborhood.

***** for Transmission (Joy Division), Jism (Tindersticks), No Hard Shoulder To Cry On (Julian Cope), Straight To Hell (The Clash), Green Onions (Booker T & The MG’s), Time Waits For No One (Rolling Stones), Psycho (Beasts Of Bourbon), For Your Love (Yardbirds), Make It Right (Tim Buckley)

**** for Hands Away (Interpol), Blind Dumb Deaf (Cocteau Twins), The Book Lovers (Divine Comedy), Passenger Pigeons (Handsome Family), Just For Today (Brian Jonestown Massacre), World Of Tomorrow (House Of Freaks), Here Come The Munchies (Kid Loco), Get Closer To You (Terry Callier)

*** for B-Minor (Lanterna), Running Scared (Nick Cave)

Athens Record Shops Part 2, Omonoia to Exarchia

OK, this one is long overdue. Some of you may remember that on a recent visit to my (former) hometown of Athens, I made a survey of the surviving record shops for the sake of this blog, taking photos and checking merchandise and prices. I published the first part about the old town and flea market area quite some time ago. This, however, concerns my old neighborhood with which I have a special bond - I didn't want to just list shops and prices and be done with it. I've written about Exarchia before - probably Greece's most notorious neighborhood, for some people it's the center of the world while for others the very mention of its name instills antipathy and fear. You see, in popular myth Exarchia is a state within a state, an area of lawlessness threatening the nation's security. It's populated by violent anarchists and junkies, to enter it is to risk your head, if you park your car there you'll find it burned etc. In truth, it's more like an ungentrified Quartier Latin, a student neighborhood between the old Polytechnic School, Law School, Library and administrative University building. Most of the university functions have moved decades ago to the campus at Zografou but ever since the beginning of the previous century, Exarchia has established itself as the focus point for all bookshops and publishing houses, (anti-) cultural establishments, coffeehouses, music clubs etc. Despite the fact that I studied dentistry a few km away at Goudi, I, just like thousands of students from the Zografou campus, spent most of my time at the cafes there, discussing politics and drinking, starting from the end of the classes (sometimes only attending the obligatory ones) and often until the next morning. Despite the popular myth that the police never enters Exarchia square, we were often harassed by policemen. It's true they didn't dare to enter the square alone, they always came in groups to harass the longhairs and punks. They always asked for your ID and often questioned you on why you're there, where you live, what is your profession etc. In my case any trouble stopped there, maybe because of my manners, or because my parents' house was in an "elite" neighborhood or of some sort of respect towards the "high achievers" studying at the "good schools", whom people then saw as tomorrow's leaders. After all those were the PASOK days, many of the governing social-democrats bent on law and order had cut their political teeth at the same Exarchia cafes. But if you weren't carrying an ID or they didn't like your attitude, they'd take you to the station for a few hours. To be fair, some of the area's fame is justified: It is a home to (among others) violent anarchists and junkies, riots do sometimes erupt and, when they do, a few cars do go up in flames. Despite that fact, I never felt threatened there except when faced with gun-toting policemen. Which is why I chose to live there as a young professional and travel to my suburban practice watching the traffic jams on the other lane with relief, happy that I'm not moving towards the city center with all the suburbanite office workers. During the early 00's, city developers have tried to gentrify the area, but despite raising prices they couldn't get rid of the students and anarchists. Curiously, the police let the drug trade continue unconstrained. It was the anarchists that invariably drove drug dealers away, sometimes by administering a, -definitely not anarchistic- beating. You see, they have always been possessive of their neighborhood. trying to establish it as a place for political dissent, not a magnet for junkies. For example, together with residents (including us) they helped turn an abandoned parking lot into an inner city garden used sometimes as an open air theater/cinema. A year or so before I left, the cycle of rebellion and police repression escalated: a 15-year old was shot dead by a policeman trying to intimidate youths lingering around the square, an act followed by nation-wide riots. The aftermath was devastating for the neighborhood, as the old anarchists' generation which co-existed peacefully with the (largely left-wing intellectual) residents was replaced by a nihilistic and violent youth movement often crossing over to crime. I don't mean plain old vandalism either, as some of them were linked to muggings, extortion of shop owners, terrorism and bank robbing. Even hate crime - a gay club was attacked and customers beaten because their "consumer capitalism" values were unacceptable to them. On the other hand, police harassment of innocent customers and residents also escalated. Then, the financial crisis came and put a definitive end to any gentrification attempts. With other downtown areas turning into slums, at least Exarchia detains a fraction of its old charm: cultural events and rock concerts still take place, bookshops and record shops provide food for the soul and the cafes and restaurants tend to the rest. A visit to Athens is incomplete without Exarchia, and as for security worries despite what I've said earlier the situation isn't bad, it's actually better than most of Athens inner city areas: a degree of caution is required, just like in every big city, but otherwise visitors should feel free to walk around and enjoy themselves. Just don't forget to have some identification papers with you, as police checks are the one constant that hasn't changed since my student days...

Music Corner,
Panepistimiou str.

As I'm for the first time methodically mapping out the record and CD market in different cities, I've come to realise that the city I grew up in actually offers some of the best choices in Europe. Vinyl prices have gone up during the last ten years, but not as much as in the UK. On the other hand, CD prices have plunged - but the biggest draw is the sheer variety of stuff available and deep music knowledge of both the city's collectors and shop clerks. On this second part of the presentation of the city's record shops, we'll start from the city's very center, Omonoia Square. Some of the streets starting here end up in rather seedy places, where prostitution, drug deals and the exchange of bootleg goods are always going on. Athinas street will lead you to Monastiraki and the flea market, but this time we'll take Panepistimou str which leads to the 19th century university building. It was supposed to be turned into a pedestrian shopping street long ago, but it's still busy with slow moving traffic. I guess the plan isn't going forward due to lack of funding. Anyway, here on your left hand (No.56) you'll find Music Corner. It's been around forever, but I rarely shop there. Somehow I don't find it browser-friendly. It does have a good selection of Greek and Jazz music, as well as rock. Some nice price CD's for less than €10, but mostly €15-20. (New) LP's cost €20+ as usual. Across the street on No.54 you'll find Reload. It stands on the original site of Athens' most historic record shop, Metropolis. I watched Metropolis grow from a single store to a chain of more than a dozen shops, including a huge multi-storied one, only for the owner to file for bankruptcy during the beginning of the crisis. I guess the time of giant record stores is over - after all, decline also hit Amsterdam's Fame and London's Virgin Megastore - and those countries weren't hit by the crisis, or at least not as hard as Greece. UPDATE 2019: Reload moved to a parallel street, Akadimias 81. Reload only sells new CD's (€9-20) DVD's and LP's(€15-30). Greek music, jazz, rock and metal (CD/vinyl ratio=50/50). Right next to it, there's a specialized Metal record store called No Remorse. Plenty of space, and everything a metalhead will ever need (CD/vinyl=50/50, mostly new). Some 2nd hand LP's (all genres) €7-20. 

The area between Panepistimiou Str and Lycabetus hill is full of old buildings related to the university and other educational institutes like the Greek-American Union, Goethe institute and French institute on Sinas street. Just below the latter, halfway between Exarchia and the old Athens aristocratic neighborhood of Kolonaki, you'll find Rock 'n Roll Circus. Lots of LP's (€8-20) and CD's starting from €3. The owner and clerks are very knowledgeable about music and host a big sale (not to be missed) at the end of every March. A couple of blocks away, you'll find my favorite record store in Athens - but only if you're well informed as it's otherwise impossible to detect. I always refer to it as Solonos & Massalias from its previous location, but most people call it To Ypogeio i.e. "The Basement". To find it, you'll have to take Skoufa street and turn right (if you're ascending) on the small pedestrian street Staikou, then turn the corner to Kaplanon street. On number 14, there's a door that gives no indication that you're before a shop. When it's open, you're faced with a staircase leading to this (literally) underground place. Here you'll find a treasure trove of vinyl and CD's in very good prices. LP's typically sell for €3-15 and CD's €2-10, with most of them costing between €4,50-7,90.  

To Ypogeio (left) and Rock'n'Roll Circus (right)

There's some new stuff (mostly reissues of classic rarities), but most of it is 2nd hand. The two brothers that own it are always friendly and eager to help when you talk to them - if you don't, they'll just let you browse uninterrupted for as long as you like. Nearby there's Didotou str, with Music Machine one of the most stylish record stores of the city. A nice place for collectible vinyl as well as vintage posters and stereo equipment, worth a visit if only for its atmosphere. Opposite to it is another small vinyl shop called Spindle UPDATE 2020: Spindle is closed, but thankfully there's another record store in its place, called Dirty Noise.

A deep selection of alternative/punk/goth with a dash of 60's garage/psych (90%Vinyl, €20-30). Still in the neighborhood and inside the gallery (H.Trikoupi 24, opposite the site of the old Happening record store; phantoms of old record shops haunt this entry, what can I do?) there's discobole records. All genres, with a good selection of psychedelia/stoner music. CD's €5-15, used vinyl mostly €5-15, new €20+. Two streets above (Ippokratous str) on. 132 there's Vinyl City. In the past (I'm talking about 15-20 years ago, when we still had drachmas instead of euros) I remember it being rather pricey but this time I found it very inexpensive.

Music Machine

Either my purse has grown bigger or the crisis has obliged the owner to drop the prices a lot. Half the stock is on offer for €1-3, the rest €4-20. Most of the records are US imports, sturdy original American vinyl - though one must be careful to check its state, we're talking about used items 30 or 40 years old. A good source for classic rock, country, soul and soundtracks. 

Action Records

Art Rat

If, instead of taking Ippokratous, you choose to descend towards Exarchia square do so via Arahovis. It's not a commercial street, but it houses two excellent record shops that will have you salivating if you're a fan of garage and psychedelia. Action Records, [new address (2019): Mavromichali 51] is specialized in garage/psych vinyl reissues and also acts as a record label. I own some of their albums - collectors items pressed in quality vinyl and issued in a limited number. Art Nouveau, like its owner Nick Kontogouris, used to be the epicenter of the Greek neo-psychedelic scene since the 80's. Nick is a veritable encyclopedia of psychedelic music (I still have his Anthology of psychedelic poetry) and has used his shop to promote local groups, even issuing records, including the legendary (and now ultra-rare) Last Drive 7' debut from 1985. The shop recently moved from Solomou str to Arahovis 42 and sells lots of great psychedelia, prog, alternative and classic rock. Used LP's cost €2-10, new ones around €20. CD's between €4-10 (used) and €15 (new). UPDATE 2020: Unfortunately the physical shop is closed - I had been a client for 32 years. The merchandise is still available on discogs. Another shop in the area that specializes in garage/psych/classic rock is Purple Haze Records (Andrea Metaxa 4, near the square). 

It's very small, but worth browsing not only for the rare original LP's and CD's but also for vintage books and posters. On the minus side, it keeps irregular opening hours, and the owner isn't the most sociable person. On Zoodohou Pigis 46, near the square you'll find Art Rat. It's a tiny place selling highly collectible psych and new wave vinyl. Prices are upwards of €30, which marks it as a collectors-only affair. On the same street, there's Plan 59. A good shop for 2nd hand oldies, jazz, rock and Greek music, with some cult 70's/80's records €9-15. UPDATE 2019: Right next to it, there's another used vinyl shop called Old School Records. Very good at 80's-90's indie, about 80% vinyl, mostly 2nd hand. Also jazz, blues, rock. Not great for bargains, but honest prices (€10-30, typically around €15, a few offers, CD's €7-15).

One street below on Emmanouel Benaki 74 you'll find Rhythm Records. It's a really nice shop focusing on underground bands playing Ska, garage, punk, stoner, psychobilly etc. New LP's cost €18-25 and used around €15. CD's go mostly for €15, with some special offers for €8-9. A good place to look for Greek Alternative scene records. UPDATE 2020: Still in the neighbourhood (Valtetsiou 31) is A Strange Attractor. A rather sophisticated collection of jazz, prog, psych, industrial and generally weird records, mostly €10-20, plus some interesting books. Sound Effect Records on Spiridonos Trikoupi and Kallidromiou (sometimes listed in its old address in Zaimi) is a bit further from the square but makes up for it with its ample space which makes browsing a comfortable experience. Some CD's €6-15, a big variety of LP's (usually €6-20, offers €3-6, rarities €20+). I especially liked the racks of psychedelic rarities from around the world, which were arranged geographically.

Also on Kallidromiou street, you can find Mikros Erotikos, a very beautiful shop specialized in Greek retro vinyl also selling all kinds of vintage nostalgia items (i.e. toys, magazines, posters etc). UPDATE 2020: Another shop on Spiridonos Trikoupi is Eat Metal Records. As you can probably guess this one specializes in Metal. Small variety in the store (maybe they have more online) bur good prices (most CDs less than €15, LP's less than €20). Going full circle towards Omonoia, one can find Zulu Records (on the pedestrian Koletti street, electronic music) and Bowel of Noise on Themistokleous 23, a paradise for dark metal/doom/goth fans (or should I say hell? maybe paradise is a dirty word for black metal fans). CD's mostly €8-18. New LP's €20+. Very close (Nikitara 14) another specialized metal shop is Sirens. Back on Themistokleous street, you'll find Le Disque Noir, with a specialty in Goth, New Wave, Metal etc. New LP's (€20-30) are on the ground floor, used vinyl (all genres, €7-20) and CD's (€10-20, many offers in metal €5-10) in the basement.

A record store I passed by but was closed throughout my whole visit is Poison Door. I don't even know if it's in business anymore but I'm mentioning it because of the cool Ramones graffiti on its front (see:photo). UPDATE 2019: In my last visit, I noticed a new record store at Themistokleous Str. that doubles as a cafe/bar. It's called vinylio and has a small but attractive collection of vinyl (Greek & International) €15-25(new) €3-20(used). 2025: It's moved a few blocks away and has almost no records for sale. Still plays good music and makes decent coffee, though. Phew, that was an extra long post and I didn't get to share travel tips with you as I originally intended. Never mind, I promise to do it on another occasion, maybe add it on a slightly relevant post for a Greek band or something. Till then...

Athens Record Shops Part 1: Monastiraki to Syntagma

Entrance to Ifestou from Monastiraki Sq.

I'm back in Athens for a few days and doing the rounds of the city's record shops for the sake of this blog, trying hard not to buy anything. After the latest in a series of moves, I've found out I've ran out of space. The last available space on the wall is taken up by my 4 new IKEA CD towers and the space over the bookcase by boxes of CD's. I estimate I can squeeze in another hundred or so CD's, which normally takes me about 6 months. And as I don't feel like moving again so soon, I showed exemplary restraint this time. Now, I know that I recently said that Delft feels more like home now than Athens does, but I've walked up and down every street here in the Athens center so many times it's hard to deny I have an unbreakable bond to this city. Especially Monastiraki, where I've spent so many hours looking for records - every week for more than 20 years. I started collecting vinyl during the late 80's, when most of the action took place on Sunday morning on an alley. Sellers would unload boxes of records from their cars and line them up on the street. No matter how early they'd come, the most fervid collectors were already there, eager to snatch the rarest and best pieces. Now, for a normal first-year student, Sunday morning simply does not exist - You get to see the sun go up, but that just happens at the end of Saturday night. Sunday itself begins at the afternoon. But I would ignore that law, get up after 3 or 4 hours of sleep and go down to Monastiraki with a plastic cup of strong café frappé in one hand and try to flip through stacks of vinyl one-handed. Monastiraki square is at the heart of the old Athens neighborhood. Visitors can't miss it as it's an integral part of the tourist trail. It's at the beginning of the walk from the Monastiraki metro station (served by the blue and green line) to the Acropolis through the ancient agora and the pittoresque old Plaka neighborhood. Or you can choose to take the pedestrian road running parallel to the railroad tracks and walk to Thission, also a good choice. Third option, just stay on the square and try some souvlaki from one of the 3 most historic pitta and souvlaki establishments in Athens, all situated here: Bairaktaris may be the favorite of politicians who want to get close to the common folk, but it's also a simple tavern with typical Greek food. Thanassis is famous for a different reason: His award-winning kebab is served in a pitta with a just bit of tomato and onions, no tzatziki or fries so that you can taste the meat better. Be advised that takeaway is much, much cheaper than sitting at a table. It's also worth mentioning here that, while Turkish kebab may mean a number of different meats (including donner) in Greece it refers to a very specific long burger from minced lamb & beef meat which is pricked with a skewer and grilled on fire. Third option is Savvas, another kebab specialist who also offers gyros as well as pork and chicken souvlaki (skewered pieces of meat). Savvas has 2 shops on the square, the new one at Ermou street also sporting a terrace with a great view of the Acropolis. I don't know if you can tell, but it's well after midnight and I'm really hungry and thinking of food when I should be discussing records instead. Just rewind now for a moment: You were exiting the train station.

7+7, Ifestou Str.

Ignore the souvlaki, and spend a moment mentally seeing the city's history unfolding in front of your eyes: on your right hand, there's Hadrian's library (2nd Century A.D.) and the Ottoman period mosque (18th Century). Straight ahead, the small 10th Century church that gave the square its name ("little monastery") and, above it all, the ancient city Acropolis (5th Century B.C.). On your left, a banner reads "Athens Flea Market". This is the entrance to Ifestou street, where you can buy anything from clothes to antiques, musical instruments, army uniforms and -most importantly- records and CD's. The oldest of the surviving stores on the street is 7+7, known to older generations as "Vassilakas". I'd like to think its name is an Arthur Lee and Love reference, but I really don't know for sure. In any case, it's a historic record shop, sadly in decline for a decade but still worth a visit. Used LPs typically cost €7-15 and new ones €20 or more. CD's mostly between €5(used) and 10. There are also some LP's/CD's for €1, mostly junk. As with everywhere in Greece, collectors should carefully check the condition of vinyl records as some of them may be close to unplayable. Taking up most of the gallery on your right hand and the basement underneath, there's Zaharias. After playing with some local rock bands, the owner went into the vinyl trade, starting with a few boxes in the alley on Sundays, and now running one of the biggest second hand records and CD shop in the country. It's where the largest part of my record collection ended up during the great vinyl purge. Most LP's cost €7-20, although some are on discount (either €2,5 or 50% of the starting price). All kinds of music but especially good in 80's/90's alternative albums. CD's typically go for €3,5-10. There are also many LP's and CD's for €1, for those who don't mind sorting through the junk in the hope of finding something interesting. In any case, it's impossible not to find something you'll like for a good price.In the next gallery on your right you'll find Mr.Vinylios, who -you may have guessed- focuses mostly on vinyl. He does have some cheap CD's (€1-8) in the shop on your left hand, but the alley and right hand shop are filled with vinyl. You'll find lots of classic rock, metal, psychedelia and Greek music in affordable prices (most cost €7-15) and many rare items (naturally above €20). 

The next gallery is home to another historic record shop, now called Rockarolla but known for almost 25 years with the name of its founder, a memorable Monastiraki figure often sporting a cowboy hat, called Vangelis "o Tzambas" (The Cheap), who also started as a Sunday street seller. The current owner is, I believe, his nephew and he's also been in the business forever. His, already reasonably priced, items are currently on -20% discount (temporarily for a couple of years now). Starting prices for LP's are usually €9-22 and CD's €7-12. Here you'll find a lot of Classic Rock, Metal, Blues, Punk and Alternative, as well as CD (probably bootleg) reissues of ultra rare psych and prog. At Normanou Street, one of Ifaistou's small side streets, there's Crossroads, a small but packed record store selling new (€6-15) and used (€3-8) CD's and LP's (€1-25). Big variety in CD's, smaller in vinyl. Prices, even on new items, are usually below what you'd get in most bigger stores. At the end of Ifaistou there's a basement with cheap DVD's and Greek CD's ("Music Factory") and, of course, you can find records at the used book stores and antique shops strewn all over the neighborhood as well as the street sellers at the Sunday market (though not on the familiar alley where it all began). Don't expect much there, though. Buried in Agia Eleousis, one of the narrow streets in the labyrinthine Psyrri neighborhood, is to diskadiko (literally "The Record Shop"). You'll find it behind the Athinas str. exit of the Monastiraki station. Here you'll find mostly vinyl and a few CD's. Most CD's and many used LP's are on offer for €5, while most LP's cost €7-15. Rare items and new reissues cost above €20. 

Public at Syntagma Square

Lastly, although not on Monastiraki and not a record shop per se, one has to mention the multi-storied Public building on Syntagma Square (One of the two central squares of Athens, housing the Parliament/former Palace). It's a few minutes' walk from Monastiraki via the Ermou central shopping street, or just one station further on the metro blue line and forms part of a big chain built on the model of the French FNAC, offering tech stuff, books, CD's and DVD's. Prices are more or less average i.e. CD's mostly between €9-17, LP's €20+. The story of the Public chain is a typical modern Greek one: It was founded by Panos Germanos, a highly successful businessman who started with a battery shop to become a giant of the mobile telephone market. He opened Public after selling his mobile retail company for a staggering €1,6 billion to the state-owned telephony OTE/Cosmote which, as dictated by neo-liberal dogma, was immediately privatized (actually sold to another partly state-owned company, Germany's Deutsche Telecom) at a huge loss for the Greek State. The Cosmote/Germanos deal is one of many examples of the kind of mismanagement that brought Greece to the brink of bankruptcy. It was investigated for possible criminal implications but the question remains open on whether it was the result of bribery or extreme stupidity. Just another case of German companies making billions of their dealings with the Greek government, either by buying state assets in cut-rate prices or by selling overpriced and ultimately useless equipment, tanks or submarines. Mr. Germanos by the way is once again under investigation, this time for brokering a suspicious deal between the Ministry of Defence and Russian weapons companies. All of which, I realize, have nothing to do with our subject but is instructive nevertheless.
I'll return to Athens record shops in a future post discussing the relevant stores in the Exarchia and Omonoia area. Just take note that this info is current as of March 2016. Stores tend to open and close, prices are going up and down etc. Many of the record shops suggested online by other bloggers, magazines etc. are not mentioned here simply because they don't exist anymore - though I do not discount the possibility I've missed some myself...

Imantas Records, Psyrri

UPDATE 2019/2020: 
A shop that must have already been around in '16, but I missed during my then tour, is Imantas Records (Sarri 46, between Monastiraki & Psyrri area). One can find new and used records,CD's and DVD's. All kinds but, crucially, their own releases as Imantas also works as an independent record label. Also between Psirri and Monastiraki (Protogenous 13, very close to the Monastiraki station) you can find a new record store called Syd, a good choice for alternative rock and psychedelia (90% vinyl, new €20-30/used €5-15). Another option in the neighborhood is Mousikos Ianos. Ianos is a Greek bookstore chain, but the ground floor of their large shop at Aiolou (pedestrian street near Monastiraki) has recently been repurposed as a record store (60/40 vinyl/CD ratio). Big space, and variety in rock, soul, jazz & Greek music. New LPs €20+ CDs mostly €10-17. There are also 2nd hand LPs €9,99-18,99 and Japanese imports around €30.